Welcome to a taste of Cádiz, Andalucia, Spain: May 2019

Cádiz is a port in Andalucía, Southern Spain known as ‘the silver teacup’ and it’s generally considered to be the oldest continually inhabited city in Europe. Now well into its fourth millennium, the ancient centre is surrounded almost entirely by water, which makes it stunningly picturesque and full of charm.

Restaurant Café Royalty is located on Plaza de la Candelaria, Cadiz 

Steve and I first visited Cádiz one year ago and we were very keen to return to some of our favourite places and discover new ones like Restaurant Cafe Royalty above where we enjoyed fine dining style tapas from this delicious menu which was excellent value at 22 euros per person.

Plaza de la Candelaria is a very beautiful quiet square in Cadiz where Codigo de Barra, another fine dining restaurant is also located. Having enjoyed a meal here last year we were making a return visit to celebrate Steve’s birthday.

Codigo de Barra serve their unique olive ‘surprise’ for the first course 

Followed by a dish representing the origin of tapas – a slice of Iberian ham on top of a sherry glass of consommé

The 3rd course was their quirky take on the traditional shrimp fritters

Toasted brioche, cured egg yolk and marinated sardines for the 4th course

Followed by garlic prawns with dry sherry

Roast lamb with vegetables in a lavender sauce for the 6th course

French toast with Thyme ice cream completed another outstanding meal at Codigo de barra 

Roast lamb with vegeatbles in a lavender sauce

with Thyme ice cream

We enjoyed tapas for lunch with sumptuous fresh oysters most days at our favourite bar Taberna La Bombilla near the central market in Cadiz. An ideal location for people -watching with good food, beer, and service at very reasonable prices. 

Just one of the fabulous stalls which surround the fish market in the centre of Cadiz

The highlight of our trip to Cadiz this time was a visit to a Flamenco Tavern, which was a totally authentic, mesmeric and entrancing experience.

A Winter sojourn at Cley Windmill, Norfolk

The story starts here with this model windmill!

This windmill was a surprise Christmas gift from Steve and a major clue to where we were going to stay in January!

Here! Cley Windmill is a spectacular conversion into a guesthouse which I first spotted several years ago when we were staying at a campsite in the village of Cley next the sea in Norfolk. Since then it has been on my wish list of iconic places to stay so this Christmas gift was a lovely surprise.

Cley Windmill dates from the early 18th Century and is a well-known landmark on the North Northfolk coast. It commands breathtaking views over the salt marshes to Blakeney Point and the sea, nestling comfortably by the old quay and alongside the flint-walled cottages of the village.

In 2006 it was a brilliant idea to turn this old windmill into a B and B and a very successful venture it has proved too, especially as it’s licensed for weddings.  A fabulous restoration in a sublime location the windmill sits among the reedy marshes on the edge of the village of Cley and the interior is simply charming. The guest rooms are attractively furmished in a country-chic style with whitewashed walls and set beneath ancient beamed ceilings. We stayed in the Millers Room which is on the ground floor but the upper rooms of the windmill in particular have spectacular views over the coast and marshes. 

Steve enjoyed a hearty meal of gammon, egg and chips at The Kings Arms in Blakeney

During our stay we enjoyed eating at two pubs in the nearby village of Blakeney in the evenings. The meals were hearty, reasonably priced comfort food but Cley Windmill does provide an evening meal for guests if required and if the superb breakfast we enjoyed there is anything to go by the food is exceptionally good!

Cley Windmill is situated right on the edge of the National Wildlife Trust reserve of Cley Marshes and perfectly placed for exploring the delights of the North Norfolk coast. This is one of the most imaginative places to spend a weekend break at any time of the year, but it is incredibly popular for its location and originality. Highly recommended, so if you want to book a room for a special occasion take my advice and book your date early!

Cley Windmill

The Quay

Cley-next-the-Sea

Holt

Norfolk

NR25 7RP

http://www.cleywindmill.co.uk

 

Crete revisited, a Greek Odyssey: September 2018

Last month Steve and I revisited the beautiful island of Crete. Here is a small selection of his wonderful photographs which capture the spirit and essence of this magical place. When I think of Crete I can always summon up memories of that incredible light, with endless days full of hot sunshine, the splendour of the mountains and the bluest of blue seascapes and skies, with vistas of outstanding scenic beauty, colour and historical interest around every corner. 

Pretty town house in Chania with rooms available for rent

We decided to base ourselves in the beautiful town Rethymnon with it’s picturesque Venetian port,  primarily for it’s central location to tour the island. We stayed in an apartment in the Old Town within sight of the impressive ancient Fortress which dominates the landscape. On this trip we particularly wanted to explore the east side of Crete and in our second week we drove to Elounda, which is one of the loveliest and most popular resorts and stayed there for two nights so that we could take a ferry to the island of Spinalonga, a place that has long been on my bucket list to visit.

The picturesque harbour of Elounda

Two fine examples of the pristine churches which we found dotted all over the island

The Windmills of the Lassithi Plateau, Crete were a spectacular sight

The joys of al fresco dining late into the warm evenings was a highlight for me. Eating out and the price of food and drink generally was less expensive than the UK, apart from sparkling water which is very costly here as in most European countries. We enjoyed frappes every morning which cost 2 euros at most places and a large beer was 3.5 euros.

Moussaka is one of my favourite Cretan dishes and it’s on the menu in most restaurants

To accompany the food we enjoyed sampling the local Cretan beers which were always served in ice-cold glasses!

 

 

Sun, sea and Tapas in Cadiz, Andalucía, Southern Spain

The view from the rooftop terrace of the Senator Cadiz Spa Hotel where we were based

Inspired by Rick Steins travels around Europe in ‘Long Weekends’  Steve and I recently enjoyed a lovely holiday in sunny Cadiz, which was one of his destinations. We had made a note of all the tapas bars and restaurants which Rick had recommended and made it our mission to see how many we could locate on our week-long stay.

The classy interior of the 4* Senator Cadiz hotel which was very centrally located in the Old Town and close to the harbour, bars, restaurants, and shops. It was exceptionally clean and had an excellent breakfast, a spa, rooftop pool, and sunbathing area. Top tip if you have a hire car (as we did) avoid the hotel car park as alternative underground parking is available nearby which is less expensive.

On our first evening, we dined at El Faro restaurant and tapas bar which was one of Rick’s recommendations and we weren’t disappointed. It’s considered one of the best places to eat fresh seafood in Andalucía for good reason and although formal it had a certain old school charm and elegance at a reasonable price for the quality. By Cadiz prices, El Faro is considered to be expensive with mains starting at 15 Euros but our bill with drinks was considerably less than we would have paid in Cambridge UK for a similar meal.

Our next destination was Taberna Casa Manteca which is a tiny and totally authentic tapas bar with a fabulous atmosphere and an interesting history. This busy bar is a must for anyone visiting Cadiz and we liked it so much we returned several times during our stay.

We came across this modern restaurant La Isleta de la Vina quite by chance and liked the look of it. The food was exceptional and very reasonably priced. This unassuming restaurant with a small but very interesting menu was like finding treasure. The chef here cooks amazing and inventive food which is lovely to look at and equally delicious to eat. Well worth seeking out in the heart of Cadiz Old Town and deservedly highly rated.

We took a bus ride to the Playa de la Victoria area of Cadiz and enjoyed lunch al fresco at La Despensa, a smart restaurant which serves traditional Spanish food with a modern twist in a beautiful setting overlooking white sandy beaches and panoramic sea views.

Apart from the exceptional restaurants and bars which are featured above, we enjoyed beers and tapas at many other interesting places and none more so than Taberna La Bombilla in one of the roads which surround the fantastic fish market in central Cadiz. Steve relished the fresh oysters from a street vendor and I enjoyed platters of local ham and cheese with chips, Padron peppers, and tomatoes.

Mercado Central de Cadiz (the Central Market) is outstanding for the abundance and variety of seafood on sale, plus the fruit, vegetable and tapas stalls around the outside with lots of benches to stop and sample the excellent produce and prepared food. Spacious, clean and well set-up the market is interesting architecturally as the new central building is combined with the original market.

A typical stall in the Fish Market

The Flower Market in Cadiz

Cádiz is a port in Andalucía, Southern Spain known as ‘the silver teacup’ and the oldest city in Europe. We found it delightful and full of quirky charm. The old town is virtually unspoiled and despite this being a stop for cruise ships it’s not a touristy place. I would make a return visit in a heartbeat because there is so much to see and do and we barely scratched the surface in a week. We located at least half the bars and restaurants which Rick Stein had recommended and found some of our own worth writing home about. It’s the ideal location for lovers of seafood with cheap beer, wonderful weather, and uncrowded beaches – what’s not to love!

 

 

 

A week of healthy eating at Champneys spa resort Tring, Herts

Last month my daughter and I enjoyed a fabulous six-day spa break at Champneys Tring, a health resort and well-being retreat which is set in 170 acres of idyllic Hertfordshire countryside. The once Rothschild family-owned estate complete with a Downton style driveway impressed from the moment we arrived. Outside the front entrance is a dramatic, modern fountain. 

Inside, the decor is modern, cool and elegant with an instantly calming sense of light and space. 

Britain’s original health spa was established by eccentric naturopath Stanley Lief in 1925 at Tring and it’s the flagship property of the Champneys Group.

A frosty start to a sunny morning at Champneys, Tring. This was the splendid view from the patio of our Ground Floor Garden Room.

We exchanged the routine of work and the stresses and strains of everyday life for a week of healthy eating, exercise classes and treatments in the tranquil bubble of the spa.

One of the fabulous relaxation rooms at Tring

The Champneys Plate

The Champneys Plate illustrates what a balanced diet actually looks like, showing how
much should be eaten from each of the three main food groups, with an equal proportion of 33 percent. The Champneys food philosophy relies on the principle of balance, moderation and variety and therefore, all Champney’s cuisine is high in fibre, low in fat and uses complex carbohydrates. For guests who are looking to lose weight, Champneys also has a Light Diet Menu and Plate offering 25 percent complex carbohydrates, 25 percent protein and 50 percent fruit/vegetables.

One of my choices for a typical nutritious breakfast! Champneys soaked muesli with soya milk and added nuts. Half a banana, Orange juice, and for a treat  – a mini blueberry muffin.

There was a wide range of hot and cold dishes available at the lunch buffet with lots of different salads and vegetables

 Three examples of the yummy desserts which were available at lunchtime 

Examples of the desserts which were available every day at the lunchtime buffet

We usually started our lunch with a bowl of delicious soup every day

At all the Champneys resorts the dress code is relaxed during the daytime and most guests wear their signature white towelling robes for breakfast and lunch, although for dinner smart casual wear is requested in the evening. At lunchtime, there is soup, a choice of hot dishes and a selection of colourful superfood salads. Desserts were of the healthy variety and came in small portions including an apple crumble, coconut rice pudding and fruit mousses, with the additional choice of fresh fruit or yoghurts. 

The spacious dining room is split-level with upholstered dining chairs and white linen tables, and the large French windows let in lots of light. We helped ourselves from the extensive self-service buffet for breakfast and lunch, and for dinner which is table service in the restaurant, there was a three-course meal with a wide range of healthy eating or light diet choices of starters, mains and desserts.

Dinner is a rather grand affair and on our first evening, a pianist was playing in the restaurant. I particularly enjoyed some excellent fish dishes which were accompanied by flavoursome sauces that certainly didn’t taste low cal but were the epitome of healthy, nutritious cuisine. Game and poultry are on offer and even some red meat dishes. Champneys take food intolerances seriously with plenty of gluten-free and lactose-free choices. There is no bar at Champneys Tring but they do offer wine or Prosecco with meals. We were very good and just drank copious amounts of water and soft drinks for the duration of our stay.

Incidentally, all meals are included in the price of the Champneys spa stay packages which make it excellent value. Guests could spend a whole week here and not pay anything extra unless you want to add treatments or drinks. 

Everything you could wish for in a spa is on offer at Champneys Tring: a 25-metre pool, a well-equipped gym, two activity studios with a wide range of classes and a host of thermal experiences. We spent a lot of time in the water during our week at Tring, as we attended Aquafit classes twice every day, and enjoyed using the Thalassotherapy pool and jacuzzi frequently too. One day when the temperatures were barely above freezing we even braved the large outdoor whirlpool for a very short while! A separate area houses the large warm saltwater thalassotherapy pool which has glass windows overlooking the grounds and a wall of slate with a soothing waterfall running down it. The water is enriched with minerals like magnesium, zinc, potassium and iron to nourish the skin and aid the detoxification process whilst the pool’s hydrotherapy jets stimulate and tone. It was my daughters’ favourite place at the spa!

The surrounding 170 acres of gardens and woodland make Champneys Tring a peaceful and quiet place to relax and provides the opportunity for a countryside stroll. However, we only ventured out once for a short walk around the beautiful grounds on a cold and frosty morning when the sun was shining.

The Marine and Wellness Spa is a new feature exclusive to the Tring resort with its own Reception area so we were keen to see what was on offer there. We booked in for a guided wellness “journey”, a combination of treatments designed to de-stress, detox, slim or rejuvenate. The full treatment lasts for two-and-a-half hours and costs £125, but we chose the shorter version which was £75 and included a foot spa, a salt scrub, an algae wrap and a session in the salt and oxygen inhalation chamber.

My daughter and I have been guests at many different health resorts and spas over the years but Champneys Tring is the very best we have ever experienced for location, treatments, classes, food, facilities, and customer service. If you are looking to rejuvenate your mind, body and soul and beat the winter blues this place has it all and is highly recommended.

Champneys Tring

Chesham Road

Wigginton

Herts.

HP23 6HX

Tel: 01442 291000

Reservations/booking enquiries: Tel: 0843 3162222

or email reservations@champneys.com

http://www.champneys.com/spa-resorts/champneys-tring

A Winter break in Whitstable, Kent: January 2018

Last week Steve and I enjoyed a 3-day winter break in Whitstable which is a quaint fishing and harbour town on the North coast of Kent. It’s located 5 miles north of Canterbury and 2 miles west of Herne Bay, and very popular with visitors, especially from London. Harbour Street has many independent shops and there is a wide selection of pubs, cafes and restaurants in the town which has the working harbour as it’s focal point. This was our first visit and a post-Christmas gift to me from Steve as he knew I have been wanting to stay in Whitstable for years and had never got around to it.

The Official Brewery of the world-famous Whitstable Oyster Company. We enjoyed sampling several of the beers!

The Royal Native Oyster Stores in Kent is a seafood restaurant offering some of the very best oysters, fish and crustacea. The restaurant is located on the beach and offers stunning views of the company’s oyster grounds.

We found this gem of a pub and restaurant serving real ales, fine wines, delicious seasonal produce and live music. Just a stone’s throw from the sea in Whitstable.

The Hotel Continental is in a prime location as it’s the only beach front hotel in Whitstable.

Whitstable Harbour

We stayed in one of these 150-year old converted Fisherman’s Huts, which were formerly fishermen stores and are now run by the Hotel Continental. They provided the perfect setting for something of a unique overnight accommodation experience that is quirky and fun. The huts are situated just metres from the beach in the centre of Whitstable offering magnificent sea views of the Thames estuary.  Breakfast was served at the Hotel Continental which is about 10 minutes walk away from the huts and included in the price.

The Hotel Continental is in a prime location as it’s the only beachfront hotel in Whitstable.

Dating from the early 19th century ‘The Old Neptune’ Whitstable, or ‘The Neppy’ as it’s affectionately known locally is one of only a handful of pubs to be found on the beaches of Britain.

After a bracing walk, we enjoyed a pint of local beer and fish finger sandwiches with salad and chips at The Old Neptune. 

After a bracing walk we enjoyed a pint of local beer and fish finger sandwiches with salad and chips at The Old Neptune

The Royal Native Oyster Stores in Whitstable is a seafood restaurant offering some of the very best oysters, fish and crustacea. The restaurant housed in a whitewashed former oyster store is located on the beach and offers stunning views of the company’s oyster grounds.

The classic rustic interior of The Royal Native Oyster Stores restaurant where we enjoyed a splendid meal on the first night of our stay. 

We found this gem of a pub and restaurant offering real ales, fine wines, delicious seasonal produce and live music, just a stone’s throw from the sea in Whitstable.

The Pearson’s Arms has a lovely bar area and a rather fine restaurant upstairs where we enjoyed dining on our second night, from a menu which showcased the best of fresh, local produce.

Steve relished eating both native and rock oysters in Whitstable.

The Official Brewery of the world-famous Whitstable Oyster Company. We enjoyed sampling several of the beers!

Some of the interesting images we found in Harbour Street, Whitstable by local enigmatic graffiti artist Catman, a Banksy-style street painter – who apparently keeps his identity firmly under wraps!

So what did I make of our winter break in Whitstable? It certainly has a unique appeal and I can’t really compare it to anywhere else, although I felt that there are similarities with Aldeburgh and Wells-next-the-sea. Our stay in the fisherman’s hut, a meal in one of the best fish restaurants and a pint of a local brew in one of the seafront pubs sums up the charm of quintessential Whitstable: a combination of the classic rugged, cosy seaside town aesthetic and a touch of the modern bohemian! Well worth a visit, a short stay or as a base for a holiday.

We will certainly return when the weather is warmer!

 

The Royal Native Oyster Stores (Fish restaurant)

Horsebridge Road

Whitstable

Kent

CT5 1BU

Tel: 01227 276856

http://www.whitstableoystercompany.com

Whitstable Fisherman’s Huts

Tel: 01227 280280

e.reservations@hotelcontinental.co.uk

Hotel Continental

29 Beach Walk

Whitstable

Kent

CT5 2BP

Pearson’s Arms (seaside pub and restaurant)

Whitstable

Kent

CT5 1BT

Tel: 01227 773133

Email: info@pearsonsarmswhitstable.co.uk

The Old Neptune pub

Marine Terrace Island Wall

Whitstable

Kent

CT5 1EJ

Tel: 01227 227262

http://www.neppy.co.uk