This month Steve and I visited the picturesque Upper Middle Rhine Valley area of Germany for a road trip incorporating the spectacular “Rhine in Flames”. We flew to Cologne Bonn Airport, picked up a hire car and drove to Oberwesel, staying at the delightful Gasthaus Weingut Stahl, (a hotel, restaurant and winery) which was our base for the first three days.
Oberwesel is a town situated on the River Rhine’s left bank in the Rhine Gorge, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, between the neighbouring towns of St Goar and Bacharach. I had often wondered why there are so many Rhine river cruises and now I know why! The scenery is absolutely spectacular along this busy stretch of the river, so we enjoyed boat trips and several cable car rides to take full advantage of the views.
Kaub is a picturesque town located on the right bank of the Rhine, a short distance down river from Oberwesel. We found it was easy and inexpensive to travel across The Rhine by the ferries which operate between the towns on either side.
In the evening on the first night we walked into Oberwesel town and had a lovely meal at the Historische Weinwirtschaft, a traditional German restaurant where we also enjoyed some local beers seated outside on the terrace.
For dinner we ate delicious trout fillets cooked in butter with almonds and fried potatoes (Bratkartoffeln) accompanied by a crisp house salad.o
On our second day of sightseeing we drove to the chocolate-box pretty town of Bacharach with it’s many fine examples of timber-frame houses, where we enjoyed more iced coffees and shared a slice of chocolate gateau in a little café off the main square. (I wasn’t counting the calories on this holiday!)
In the afternoon we climbed to the top of Lorelei Rock, a place of folklore, myth and legend for more stunning views …..
The Lorelei (in German Loreley) is a 132 metre high, steep slate rock on the right bank of the River Rhine in the Rhine Gorge at St Goar. It’s famous for the legend of The Lady of Lorelei, and statue and the rock are major tourist attractions in the area.
The “Lorelei” statue sits on a narrow arm of land jutting out into the Rhine River between St. Goar and St. Goarshausen.The tales of a woman named Lorelei in Germany’s Rhine River Valley date back several centuries, and according to legend, many boats lie at the bottom of the Rhine River because of her.
Back at Gasthaus Stahl on the second evening we enjoyed an excellent meal followed by a tasting in the wine cellar which was one of the highlights of our stay, along with the most lavish and substantial buffet spread at breakfast, which was second to none.
For dinner at Gasthaus Stahl I enjoyed a hearty meal of pan-fried salmon with risotto, and Steve had a Sirloin steak with herb butter and fried potatoes, accompanied by sparkling Riesling for me, and a bottle of Muller-Thurgau wine for him. (Steve is a BIG fan of German wines, and I discovered a real liking for Sparkling Riesling on this holiday – which was new to me.)
For a superb place to stay which is an ideal base for touring the area I highly recommend….
Gasthaus Weingut Stahl
Am Talblick 6
Tel: 06744 / 416
I’m also happy to recommend this excellent restaurant in Oberwesel…..
Liebfrauenstr. 17, 55430 Oberwesel
Part 2 of our road trip in the Middle Rhine area coming soon…..