The Upper Middle Rhine – a memorable German road trip Part 1 : September 2016


This month Steve and I visited the picturesque Upper Middle Rhine Valley area of Germany for a road trip incorporating the spectacular “Rhine in Flames”. We flew to Cologne Bonn Airport, picked up a hire car and drove to Oberwesel, staying at the delightful Gasthaus Weingut Stahl, (a hotel, restaurant and winery) which was our base for the first three days.030a-550x400

Oberwesel is a town situated on the River Rhine’s left bank in the Rhine Gorge, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, between the neighbouring towns of St Goar and Bacharach. I had often wondered why there are so many Rhine river cruises and now I know why! The scenery is absolutely spectacular along this busy stretch of the river, so we enjoyed boat trips and several cable car rides to take full advantage of the views.

img_0070-2IMG_0071 (2).JPGimg_0067

Whilst sightseeing in the exceptionally hot sunny weather for the time of year we enjoyed an early lunch, usually accompanied by a beer for Steve and an iced coffee for me, and lots of surprisingly expensive bottled water!
Just one of several Flammkuchen I enjoyed over the holiday, – like this sweet one with apples, raisons, and crème fraiche
Steve tucked into Bratwurst, Mustard (senf), and Pommes Frittes and of course a Bitburger, Germany’s No 1 draft beer at the Biergarten am Pegelhaus in Kaub

Kaub is a picturesque town located on the right bank of the Rhine, a short distance down river from Oberwesel. We found it was easy and inexpensive to travel across The Rhine by the ferries which operate between the towns on either side.

IMG_20160906_1315004 (2).jpg
The ferry to Kaub, followed by some images of the historic and colourful town’s architecture


In the evening on the first night we walked into Oberwesel town and had a lovely meal at the Historische Weinwirtschaft, a traditional German restaurant where we also enjoyed some local beers seated outside on the terrace.

For dinner we ate delicious trout fillets cooked in butter with almonds and fried potatoes (Bratkartoffeln) accompanied by a crisp house salad.IMG_20160905_1826477 (2).jpgoIMG_20160905_1826404 (2).jpg

On our second day of sightseeing we drove to the chocolate-box pretty town of Bacharach with it’s many fine examples of timber-frame houses, where we enjoyed more iced coffees and shared a slice of chocolate gateau in a little café off the main square. (I wasn’t counting the calories on this holiday!)img_20160907_1132176-2

The Rathaus (Town Hall) in Bacharach was an impressively decorative building

In the afternoon we climbed to the top of Lorelei Rock, a place of folklore, myth and legend for more stunning views …..800px-loreley_rhine_valley_wp_d_schmidt_08_07

The Lorelei (in German Loreley) is a 132 metre high, steep slate rock on the right bank of the River Rhine in the Rhine Gorge at St Goar. It’s famous for the legend of The Lady of Lorelei, and statue and the rock are major tourist attractions in the area.lady

The “Lorelei” statue sits on a narrow arm of land jutting out into the Rhine River between St. Goar and St. Goarshausen.The tales of a woman named Lorelei in Germany’s Rhine River Valley date back several centuries, and according to legend, many boats lie at the bottom of the Rhine River because of her.img_20160906_1629431

Back at Gasthaus Stahl on the second evening we enjoyed an excellent meal followed by a tasting in the wine cellar which was one of the highlights of our stay, along with the most lavish and substantial buffet spread at breakfast, which was second to none.


Our meal was accompanied by a glass Sparkling Riesling for me and Muller-Thurgau wine for Steve

For dinner at Gasthaus Stahl I enjoyed a hearty meal of pan-fried salmon with risotto, and Steve had a Sirloin steak with herb butter and fried potatoes, accompanied by sparkling Riesling for me, and a bottle of Muller-Thurgau wine for him. (Steve is a BIG fan of German wines, and I discovered a real liking for Sparkling Riesling on this holiday – which was new to me.)

IMG_0114 (4).JPG
The wine cellar at Gasthaus Stahl generously offered unsupervised tastings to guests, which we fully appreciated!


IMG_0118 (4).JPG
We ended our stay at this excellent hotel with a glass of their homemade elderflower liquer

For a superb place to stay which is an ideal base for touring the area I highly recommend….

Gasthaus Weingut Stahl

Am Talblick 6

55430 Oberwesel-Dellhofen



Tel:  06744 / 416

email: info@gasthaus-stahl


I’m also happy to recommend this excellent restaurant in Oberwesel…..

Historische Weinwirtschaft

Liebfrauenstr. 17, 55430 Oberwesel

Tel: 06744/8186

Part 2 of our road trip in the Middle Rhine area coming soon…..


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s